The car shudders every time it pulls away. Is the clutch finished?
Maybe, and there is a way to find out that does not involve opinions. On the automated-manual cars there is a real clutch being slipped by a computer, and the transmission module keeps both a wear figure and the engagement points it has learned. We read them. A clutch with life left in it that has drifted out of adaptation — which happens after a flat battery, a module replacement or simply a lot of crawling in traffic — feels exactly like a worn one from the seat, and re-learning the points fixes it. A clutch that is genuinely at the end of its travel shows in the same data. We also look at how the car is used, because reversing up a car park ramp repeatedly is far harder on this component than distance is.
Why does a gearbox job on this car cost more than on my other car?
Because of where it is. On most of these cars the gearbox is not behind the engine — it is at the back of the car, bolted to the final drive, with a rigid torque tube joining the two ends. That layout is part of why the car balances and steers the way it does, and it is also why fluid runs the length of the car to a cooler at the front, why a clutch is at the rear axle, and why the car has to be supported in more than one place to drop anything. None of that is a surcharge. It is simply a longer job, and it should be described that way in the estimate rather than discovered later.
Somebody reversed into the rear wing. Can it just be beaten out and painted?
Not the way a steel car can. The outer panels are aluminium: they stretch rather than spring back, they harden where they are worked, and filler over a stretched aluminium panel lifts along the edges within a year or two in this climate. Underneath, the structure is extruded aluminium bonded with structural adhesive and set with self-piercing rivets, so what can and cannot be repaired is decided by how the car was assembled, not by what looks fixable. Our first output is an assessment that separates skin from structure and tells you honestly which part of it should go to a body shop set up for bonded aluminium. That is a better answer than a cheap repair that shows in the shut lines.
The car is flat every time I come back to it. What should I do?
First we find out whether the car is drawing more than it should while it sleeps, or whether it is simply not being driven enough to replace what it uses. Those are opposite problems with opposite answers. We measure the draw after the car has properly shut down, then trace it circuit by circuit if it is high. If the draw is normal, the fix is a conditioner left on it between drives rather than another battery, because a battery taken to zero repeatedly loses capacity permanently and the third one will die as well. Either way, expect to hand the modules back what they lost: after a car has been flat, the gearbox and throttle adaptations are worth resetting before you judge how the car drives.
Do you have the factory diagnostic system for these?
We will not claim to hold any manufacturer tool, and the line at the bottom of this page says why: nobody appointed us and we will not imply otherwise. What we will tell you is what the job on your car actually needs. Some of it is diagnostic work any competent workshop should be doing properly — reading per-cylinder misfire counts, testing a circuit instead of reading a code off it, measuring a standing current draw, pressure-testing a system. Some of it is module work that has to be written back after a repair. And some of it, on these cars, is genuinely behind a closed system, and when your job is one of those we will say so before it starts rather than after your car is apart.